OBDII Jeep Cherokee: Your Guide to Decoding the Check Engine Light

The check engine light – that little illuminated icon on your Jeep Cherokee dashboard – can be a source of anxiety for any driver. Is it a minor sensor glitch, or a sign of a major mechanical issue? Fortunately, modern vehicles like the Jeep Cherokee are equipped with an On-Board Diagnostics system, specifically OBDII, which can help you understand what’s going on under the hood. This system generates diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) that can pinpoint potential problems, saving you time and money on unnecessary repairs.

As an automotive expert at autelfrance.com, I understand the importance of quickly and accurately diagnosing vehicle issues. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about OBDII systems in your Jeep Cherokee, including how to retrieve these codes and what they mean. While this information is invaluable for troubleshooting, remember it’s designed as an aid, not a substitute for professional diagnosis and repair.

Understanding OBDII and Your Jeep Cherokee

OBDII, or On-Board Diagnostics II, is a standardized system implemented in most vehicles sold in the United States from 1996 onwards, including the Jeep Cherokee. Its primary function is to monitor the performance of your vehicle’s engine and emissions systems. When the system detects a problem that could increase emissions or affect vehicle performance, it illuminates the check engine light and stores a corresponding diagnostic trouble code.

Think of OBDII as your Jeep Cherokee’s internal health monitor. It constantly checks various sensors and systems, from the engine and transmission to the exhaust and fuel systems. This sophisticated system is designed to:

Identify potential problems early: OBDII can detect issues before they become major, potentially preventing costly repairs down the line.
Aid in accurate diagnosis: By providing specific codes, OBDII helps mechanics and DIY enthusiasts pinpoint the source of a problem more efficiently.
Ensure emissions compliance: OBDII plays a crucial role in ensuring your Jeep Cherokee meets environmental regulations by monitoring emission-related components.

For Jeep Cherokee owners, understanding OBDII is empowering. It allows you to be proactive about vehicle maintenance and communicate more effectively with your mechanic. Instead of being in the dark when the check engine light comes on, you can take steps to understand the issue and make informed decisions about repairs.

How to Retrieve OBDII Codes on Your Jeep Cherokee

Before you rush to a mechanic, you can often retrieve the OBDII codes yourself, right in your driveway. The method for retrieving these codes on a Jeep Cherokee can vary slightly depending on the model year. Here are two common methods, often referred to as “key tricks”:

Method 1: The “Key Trick” for Older Jeep Cherokee Models (and some newer)

This method, sometimes used even on OBDII equipped Jeeps, involves using the ignition key to display codes through the check engine light or odometer.

Turn the ignition off: Ensure your Jeep Cherokee is completely turned off.
Perform the key cycle: Within five seconds, insert your key into the ignition and cycle it in the following sequence: On – Off – On – Off – On. (Important: “On” is the position right before starting the engine, not the “Start” position. “Off” is not “Lock”, just turn back to the off position).
Observe the check engine light or odometer:
- Check Engine Light: On older models, the check engine light will begin to flash. Count the flashes. Two-digit codes are indicated by flashes separated by pauses. For example, code 23 would be FLASH-FLASH (pause) FLASH-FLASH-FLASH (long pause). A code 55 indicates the end of the code sequence and is normal. Be aware that blink spacing might not always be perfectly uniform on older models.
- Digital Odometer: On newer Jeep Cherokee models with a digital odometer, the codes may be displayed directly on the odometer itself, often starting with a “P” (for Powertrain codes).

Method 2: Odometer Reset Button Method for Newer Jeep Cherokee Models

This method is specifically for newer Jeep Cherokee models with a digital odometer.

Insert the key and press the odometer reset button: Put your key into the ignition and press and hold down the odometer reset button.
Turn the key to the “RUN” position: While holding the odometer reset button, turn the ignition key to the “RUN” position (the position right before starting the engine).
Release the odometer reset button: Release the button.
Observe the odometer display: The odometer will typically cycle through a series of numbers (e.g., 111111 to 999999), then display the vehicle’s serial number. After this, it should begin displaying any stored error codes, often prefixed with “P”.

Important Notes on Retrieving Codes:

Parking Brake: In some cases, you might need to set the parking brake for the codes to display correctly.
Code Repetition: Codes are generally not repeated. If you see a sequence like 23 23, it’s likely just a single 55 (end of codes).
“Limp In” Mode: If the computer detects a major failure, it might activate “Limp In” mode. This is a safety feature that allows you to drive the car to a mechanic by compensating for sensor failures with estimated data. A common symptom is the loss of third and/or fourth gear in automatic transmissions.

If neither of these “key trick” methods works, or if you prefer a more straightforward approach, you can use a dedicated OBDII code reader. These devices are readily available online and at auto parts stores and provide a direct and often more detailed way to access and clear OBDII codes.

Decoding OBDII Codes: Comprehensive List for Jeep Cherokee

Once you have retrieved the codes, the next step is to understand what they mean. OBDII codes are standardized and consist of a five-character alphanumeric code. The first character indicates the system:

P: Powertrain (engine, transmission)
B: Body (body control modules, interior)
C: Chassis (braking, suspension, steering)
U: Network/Communication (communication between onboard computer systems)

The second character is a digit:

0: Generic OBDII code (standard across all manufacturers)
1: Manufacturer-specific code (specific to Jeep/Chrysler)

The third character indicates the subsystem:

1: Fuel and Air Metering
2: Fuel and Air Metering – Injector Circuit
3: Ignition System or Misfire
4: Auxiliary Emission Controls
5: Vehicle Speed Controls and Idle Control System
6: Computer Output Circuit
7: Transmission

The last two characters are specific digits that further pinpoint the problem.

Below is a comprehensive list of OBDII codes relevant to Jeep Cherokee and other Chrysler vehicles. It’s important to note that while many codes are generic, some might be manufacturer-specific. Always refer to your Jeep Cherokee owner’s manual or a reliable repair database for the most accurate interpretation.

(Please note: This is not an exhaustive list and is intended as a guide for troubleshooting. Always consult a professional mechanic for diagnosis and repair.)

Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) – Important! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.

11: No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
12: Battery or computer recently disconnected
13: MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
14: MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
15: No speed/distance sensor signal
16: Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17: Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?) OR 17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
21: Oxygen sensor signal doesn’t change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
22: Coolant sensor signal out of range – May have been disconnected to set timing
23: Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
24: Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
25: Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
26: Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
27: Injector circuit isn’t switching when it’s told to (TBI) OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding – check computer, connections
31: Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
32: (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit OR 32 EGR gases not working (1988) – check vacuum, valve OR 32 (1990-92) computer didn’t see change in air/’fuel ratio when EGR activated – check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
33: Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80’s models if you don’t have air conditioning)
34: (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open OR 34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
35: Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted OR 35 idle switch motor fault – check connections
36: (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37: Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed OR part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) OR solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only) OR Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
41: Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42: Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted OR 42 Fuel pump relay control circuit OR 42 Fuel level unit – no change over miles OR 42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
43: Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR 43 Cylinder misfire OR 43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44: No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR 44 Battery temperature out of range
45: Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46: Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
47: Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51: Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. OR 51 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only).
52: Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position OR 52 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only)
53: Logic module internal problem
54: No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR 54 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only) – or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
55: End of codes
61: “Baro” sensor open or shorted
62: EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM OR PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63: Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64: Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65: Power steering switch failure
66: No CCD Message From TCM and/or No CCD Message From BCM

Newer Model Computer codes (OBDII)

P0030: Sensor heater relay problem
P0036: Sensor heater relay problem
P0106: MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup
P0107: MAP sensor voltage too low
P0108: MAP sensor voltage too high
P0112: Intake air temperature sensor voltage low
P0113: Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high
P0116: Coolant temperature sensor reading doesn’t make sense
P0117: Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low
P0118: Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high
P0121: Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other
P0122: Throttle position sensor voltage low
P0123: Throttle position sensor voltage high
P0125: Taking too long to reach proper operating temperature and switch to energy-efficient mode
P0130: Sensor heater relay problem OR O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0131: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134: O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140: O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0143: O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0144: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0145: O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146: O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0147: Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
P0151: Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to ground?
P0152: Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to active 12V?
P0153: Oxygen sensor response too slow
P0154: Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition – may need replacement
P0155: Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
P0157: Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to ground?
P0158: Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to active 12V?
P0159: Oxygen sensor response too slow
P0160: Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition – may need replacement
P0161: Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
P0171: The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
P0172: The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
P0174: The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
P0175: The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
P0176: Flex fuel sensor can’t be seen
P0178: Flex fuel sensor problem
P0179: Flex fuel sensor problem
P0182: Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
P0183: Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
P0201: Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0202: Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0203: Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0204: Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0205: Injector #5 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0206: Injector #6 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0207: Injector #7 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0208: Injector #8 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
P0300: Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
P0301: Misfire detected in cylinder #1.
P0302: Misfire detected in cylinder #2.
P0303: Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
P0304: Misfire detected in cylinder #4.
P0305: Misfire detected in cylinder #5.
P0306: Misfire detected in cylinder #6.
P0307: Misfire detected in cylinder #7
P0308: Misfire detected in cylinder #8.
P0320: Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking.
P0325: Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong.
P0330: Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong.
P0340: No camshaft signal being received by the computer
P0350: A coil is drawing too much current.
P0351: Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0352: Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0353: Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0354: Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0355: Coil #5 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0356: Coil #6 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0357: Coil #7 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0358: Coil #8 is not reaching peak current at the right time
P0401: A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test.
P0403: An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.
P0404: The EGR sensor’s reported position makes no sense
P0405: EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
P0406: EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
P0412: The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator).
P0420: The catalyst seems inefficient (#1).
P0432: The catalyst seems inefficient (#2).
P0441: Evaporative purge flow system not working properly
P0442: A leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
P0443: Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working properly
P0455: A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
P0456: A small leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
P0460: The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long distance. Something seems wrong.
P0461: The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long time. Something seems wrong.
P0462: Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
P0463: Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
P0500: Haven’t heard from the speed sensor lately.
P0505: The idle speed air control motor doesn’t seem to be working correctly.
P0522: Oil pressure sensor problems
P0523: Oil pressure sensor problems
P0551: The power steering switch may not be working. (Neons: high pressure is showing up at high speed)
P0600: Oh-oh! The coprocessors aren’t talking to each other within the computer!
P0601: Internal computer error!
P0604: Internal computer error! (RAM check)
P0605: Internal computer error! (ROM)
P0615: Starter relay circuit problem
P0622: Generator field control problem
P0645: A/C clutch relay circuit problem.
P0700: The automatic transmission computer or Aisin computer has a problem – ask it what’s going on. I don’t know.
P0703: Brake switch circuit information seems wrong.
P0711: Based on the transmission temperature and its operations, it looks like the transmission temperature sensor’s gone bad.
P0712: Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
P0713: Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
P0720: The Output Shaft Speed Sensor doesn’t match the reported vehicle speed.
P0740: The engine’s running faster than it should for these speeds, so I think the torque converter clutch lock-up system is bad
P0743: Torque converter clutch (part throttle unlock) solenoid circuit problem – shift solenoid C electrical fault
P0748: Governor Pressure Solenoid circuit problem (Transmission relay circuit problem in Jeep RE transmissions)
P0751: Overdrive override switch has been pressed for over five minutes. Just thought you should know.
P0753: Overdrive solenoid control circuit problem (transmission relay circuit in Jeep RE transmissions.)
P0756: Shift solenoid B (2-3) fault
P0783: The overdrive solenoid can’t go from 3rd gear to the overdrive gear.
P0801: Transmission reverse gear lockout solenoid circuit problem!
P0833: Problem with the clutch-released switch circuit?
P1192: Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
P1193: Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
P1194: Oxygen sensor heater performance is faulty
P1195: Oxygen sensor is slow
P1196: The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 2).
P1197: The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 1).
P1198: Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
P1199: Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
P1281: The engine is staying cold too long – check your thermostat.
P1282: The fuel pump relay circuit seems to be having a problem.
P1288: The intake manifold short runner tuning valve circuit seems to be having a problem.
P1289: There’s a problem in the manifold tuning valve solenoid control circuit.
P1290: Compressed natural gas system pressure is too high
P1291: The heated air intake sensor does not seem to be working.
P1292: Natural gas pressure sensor issue
P1293: Natural gas pressure sensor issue
P1294: Can’t get to target engine speed, check for vacuum leaks and idle speed motor issues.
P1295: The throttle position sensor doesn’t seem to be getting enough electricity.
P1296: The MAP sensor doesn’t seem to be getting enough electricity.
P1297: The MAP sensor doesn’t change its reading when the engine is running!
P1298: During wide-open throttle, the engine runs lean.
P1299: MAP Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor signals don’t match, check for a vacuum leak.
P1388: Auto shutdown relay circuit problems?
P1389: No Z1 or Z2 voltage seen by the computer when the auto shutdown relay is used.
P1390: Cam and crank signals don’t match – did the timing belt skip a tooth?
P1391: Sometimes, I can’t see the crank or cam sensor signal.
P1398: I can see the Crank Sensor’s signal when I prepare for Misfire Diagnostics. Try replacing it.
P1399: Problem in the Wait to Start Lamp circuit – (diesels only?)
P1403: EGR position sensor not getting (enough) voltage.
P1476: Too little secondary air injection during aspirator test.
P1477: Too much secondary air injection during aspirator test.
P1478: Battery temperature sensor voltage wrong.
P1479: Transmission fan relay circuit problems?
P1480: PCV solenoid circuit problems?
P1481: Transmission RPM pulse generator signal for misfire detection seems wrong.
P1482: Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted low.
P1483: Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted high.
P1484: The catalyst seems to be overheating!
P1485: Air injection solenoid circuit problems.
P1486: Pinched or blocked hose in the evaporative hose system.
P1487: Control circuit of the #2 high-speed radiator fan control relay is having problems.
P1488: Auxiliary 5-volt sensor feed is too low.
P1489: High speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
P1490: Low speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
P1491: Radiator fan control circuit problem (may be solid state relays as well as other circuits).
P1492: Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
P1493: Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
P1494: Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem – electrical or the pump itself.
P1495: Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem – the solenoid circuit.
P1496: Sensor feed is below an acceptable limit. (under 4v for 4 seconds – should be 5v).
P1498: High speed radiator fan control circuit problem. (#3 control relay)
P1594: Voltage too high in charging system.
P1595: Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid control circuits shorted or lost.
P1596: Speed control switch always high
P1597: Speed control switch always low
P1598: A/C pressure sensor voltage high
P1599: A/C pressure sensor voltage low
P1681: No messages received from the cluster control module (dashboard computer).
P1682: Charging system doesn’t seem to be working well. Check alternator, etc.
P1683: Speed control servo power control circuit problem.
P1684: The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.
P1685: Invalid key received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
P1686: No messages received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
P1687: No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster module.
P1693: The companion engine control module has shown a fault.
P1694: No messages received from the powertrain control module-Aisin transmission.
P1695: No messages received from the body control module.
P1696: Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location!
P1697: Unsuccessful attempt to update Service Reminder Indicator (SRI or EMR) mileage!
P1698: No messages received from the electronic transmission control module or the Aisin transmission controller.
P1719: Transmission 2-3 gear lockout solenoid control circuit problem.
P1740: Either the tcc solenoid or overdrive solenoid systems doesn’t seem to be making much sense.
P1756: Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Mid pressure problem)
P1757: Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Zero pressure problem)
P1762: The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations.
P1763: The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too high
P1764: The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too low.
P1765: Open or short in the Transmission Relay control circuit.
P1899: The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck!

Troubleshooting with OBDII Codes: Tips and Best Practices

Retrieving and decoding OBDII codes is a fantastic first step in understanding your Jeep Cherokee’s health. However, it’s crucial to remember that these codes are diagnostic aids, not definitive diagnoses. Here are some best practices for using OBDII codes effectively:

Verify the Code: Always double-check the code you retrieved. Using a code reader can help ensure accuracy, especially compared to counting check engine light flashes.
Understand the Code Description: Carefully read the description associated with the code. This list provides a starting point, but using a reliable online OBDII database (many are free) can offer more detailed explanations and potential causes specific to your Jeep Cherokee model year.
Consider Potential Causes: The code description will suggest potential problem areas. However, a single code can have multiple causes. For example, a P0171 (System Too Lean) code could be caused by a vacuum leak, a faulty oxygen sensor, a fuel pump issue, or even a clogged fuel filter.
Start with Simple Checks: Before replacing parts, begin with basic troubleshooting. For a P0171 code, check for obvious vacuum leaks by listening for hissing sounds around hoses and intake manifolds. Inspect air filters, and ensure fuel lines are not kinked.
Use OBDII Data for Further Insight: A good OBDII code reader can provide live data streams from your vehicle’s sensors. This real-time information can be invaluable in diagnosing intermittent problems or verifying sensor readings. For example, you can monitor oxygen sensor voltage, fuel trim levels, and MAP sensor readings to get a clearer picture of what’s happening.
Don’t Just Replace Parts Based on Codes Alone: Avoid simply replacing the component mentioned in the code description without further investigation. OBDII codes point you in the right direction, but proper diagnosis often requires further testing, such as sensor testing with a multimeter, fuel pressure checks, or smoke tests for vacuum leaks.
Seek Professional Help When Needed: If you are uncomfortable with automotive diagnostics or repair, or if the problem seems complex, don’t hesitate to consult a qualified mechanic. OBDII codes are helpful, but expert knowledge and specialized tools are often necessary for accurate diagnosis and effective repairs.

Disclaimer: This OBDII code list and information is intended to be an aid for troubleshooting and not as a comprehensive repair manual. Vehicle systems are complex, and accurate diagnosis often requires professional expertise and specialized tools. Always prioritize safety and consult a qualified technician when in doubt.

By understanding how to retrieve and interpret OBDII codes on your Jeep Cherokee, you can take a more informed and proactive approach to vehicle maintenance, potentially saving time and money while keeping your vehicle running smoothly.