Navigating the complexities of your vehicle’s onboard diagnostic system can be daunting, especially when faced with a check engine light and unfamiliar codes. Among these, OBDII code P0110, indicating an “Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction,” is a common issue that can affect your car’s performance and fuel efficiency. As an automotive expert at autelfrance.com, I’m here to break down this code, explore its causes, symptoms, and guide you through the diagnostic and repair process.
Understanding OBDII Code P0110
OBDII (On-Board Diagnostics II) is a standardized system that monitors various components and systems in your vehicle. When the system detects a problem, it triggers a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and illuminates the check engine light. Code P0110 specifically points to a malfunction within the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit.
The IAT sensor plays a crucial role in your engine’s operation. It measures the temperature of the air entering the intake manifold and sends this data to the Engine Control Unit (ECU) or Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The ECU uses this information to adjust the air-fuel mixture, ignition timing, and idle speed for optimal engine performance and emissions control.
When the ECU detects a fault in the IAT sensor circuit, such as low voltage, it sets the P0110 code. This doesn’t necessarily mean the IAT sensor itself is faulty, but rather there’s an issue within the sensor’s electrical circuit that needs investigation.
Symptoms of a P0110 Code
While the check engine light is the most obvious sign, several other symptoms can accompany a P0110 code:
- Reduced Engine Performance: The ECU relies on accurate IAT readings to optimize engine functions. Incorrect readings due to a circuit malfunction can lead to decreased power and acceleration.
- Poor Fuel Economy: An inaccurate air-fuel mixture, resulting from faulty IAT sensor data, can cause your engine to consume more fuel.
- Rough Idle or Stalling: The engine might idle erratically or stall, particularly when cold, as the ECU struggles to adjust to the incorrect air temperature information.
- Difficulty Starting: In some cases, a P0110 code can make it harder to start your vehicle, especially in cold weather.
- Increased Emissions: An improper air-fuel mixture can lead to higher levels of harmful emissions.
It’s important to note that these symptoms can also be associated with other engine problems. Therefore, using an OBDII scanner to confirm the presence of the P0110 code is crucial for accurate diagnosis.
Potential Causes of OBDII Code P0110
Several factors can trigger a P0110 code. Pinpointing the exact cause is essential for effective repair. Common culprits include:
- Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: The sensor itself might be defective and providing inaccurate readings or no signal at all.
- Wiring Issues: Damage to the wiring harness connected to the IAT sensor, such as shorts, opens, or corrosion, can disrupt the circuit and cause low voltage readings.
- Connector Problems: Loose, corroded, or damaged electrical connectors at the IAT sensor or ECU can impede proper signal transmission.
- ECU/PCM Malfunction: In rare cases, a problem within the ECU/PCM itself can lead to misinterpretation of the IAT sensor signal or falsely trigger the P0110 code.
- Air Intake Leaks: While less directly related to the electrical circuit, significant air intake leaks can sometimes indirectly affect IAT sensor readings and potentially contribute to the code.
Diagnosing and Troubleshooting P0110
Diagnosing a P0110 code requires a systematic approach. Here’s a step-by-step guide you can follow:
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Retrieve the Code: Use an OBDII scanner to confirm the presence of the P0110 code and check for any other related codes. Note down all codes present as they might offer additional clues.
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Visual Inspection: Carefully inspect the IAT sensor, its wiring harness, and connectors. Look for any signs of damage, such as frayed wires, corrosion, or loose connections. Pay close attention to the wiring near heat sources or areas prone to moisture and road debris.
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Check Sensor Readings with a Scan Tool: Use a scan tool to read the live data stream from the IAT sensor. Compare the reading with the ambient air temperature. An abnormally low or consistently unchanging reading, especially when the engine is cold, suggests a sensor or circuit problem.
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Test Sensor Resistance: Disconnect the IAT sensor and use a multimeter to measure its resistance. Compare the measured resistance with the manufacturer’s specifications for your vehicle model at the current ambient temperature. Deviations from the expected range indicate a faulty sensor.
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Check for Voltage and Ground at the Connector: With the ignition ON, use a multimeter to check for proper voltage supply (typically 5 volts) and ground at the IAT sensor connector. Lack of voltage or ground indicates a wiring or ECU issue.
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Perform Wiring Continuity Tests: If voltage and ground are present, perform continuity tests on the wiring between the IAT sensor connector and the ECU/PCM connector. This will help identify any breaks or shorts in the wiring.
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Inspect for Intake Leaks: Check for any cracks, loose hoses, or damaged seals in the air intake system that could be causing unmetered air to enter the engine.
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ECU/PCM Testing (Last Resort): If all other components and wiring are verified to be in good working order, and the P0110 code persists, the ECU/PCM might be the source of the problem. However, ECU/PCM issues are less common and should be investigated by a qualified technician.
Repairing OBDII Code P0110
The repair procedure for a P0110 code depends on the underlying cause identified during the diagnostic process. Common repairs include:
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IAT Sensor Replacement: If the sensor is determined to be faulty based on resistance testing or scan tool readings, replacing the IAT sensor is necessary. Ensure you use a compatible sensor for your vehicle make and model.
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Wiring Repair: Repairing damaged wiring involves fixing shorts, opens, or corrosion in the IAT sensor circuit. This might include splicing wires, replacing sections of the harness, or cleaning corroded terminals.
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Connector Repair or Replacement: Clean corroded connectors with electrical contact cleaner or replace damaged connectors to ensure a solid electrical connection.
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Intake Leak Repair: Address any air intake leaks by replacing cracked hoses, tightening clamps, or replacing damaged seals.
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ECU/PCM Repair or Replacement: If the ECU/PCM is diagnosed as faulty, it might require reprogramming, repair, or replacement. This is a complex procedure best left to experienced technicians.
After completing any repairs, clear the P0110 code using an OBDII scanner and test drive the vehicle to ensure the code does not return and the symptoms are resolved.
Maintaining Your Vehicle and Preventing Future Issues
Regular vehicle maintenance is key to preventing OBDII codes like P0110 and ensuring optimal performance. Here are some preventative measures:
- Regular Inspections: Periodically inspect your engine bay, including wiring harnesses, connectors, and sensors, for any signs of damage or wear.
- Proper Air Filter Maintenance: Replace your engine air filter according to the manufacturer’s recommended intervals. A clean air filter ensures proper airflow to the IAT sensor and engine.
- Address Issues Promptly: If you notice any symptoms of engine problems or your check engine light illuminates, address the issue promptly. Ignoring problems can lead to more extensive and costly repairs down the line.
- Professional Servicing: Schedule regular maintenance services with qualified technicians who can perform thorough inspections and address potential issues before they escalate.
Comprehensive OBDII Code List (Original Source)
For broader reference, here is the extensive list of OBDII and OBDI codes from the original source, which can be helpful for diagnosing other potential issues:
(The following is the OBD code list from the original article, included for completeness as per instructions)
DISCLAIMERS
- Please note that this is not a complete listing, but it is close to complete. It was compiled from a number of different sources. I therefore make no claims as to it’s accuracy. This is a work in progress, so if anyone sees glaring omissions or errors, PM me and I will get it fixed.
- Not all of these codes are relevant to Jeeps, but rather to Chrysler vehicles in general.
- Computers (in this case the ECU) only do what you tell them, so they might not see problems which do exist, or they might see problems that do not exist, or they might indicate a problem which is in reality caused by some other component. Code readers have the ability to glean much more accurate information from the ECU than the methods outlined below. Therefore, this listing should only to be used as an aid in troubleshooting and NOT as a repair guide/manual.
***END DISCLAIMERS***
Intro and Notes
So, before outlining the procedure (a.k.a. “key trick”) to get the codes, a few things to note:
- You may have to set the parking brake for the codes to show
- On older models, the blink-spacing is not always perfectly uniform, so if you see 23 23, it’s probably just a single 55 since codes are not repeated (55 is end of codes – it’s normal)
- On newer models with a digital odometer, the codes are usually displayed on the odometer rather than blinking the check engine light.
- When the computer indicates major failure, it can activate “Limp In” mode, which guesses about data to compensate for sensor failure, allowing you to get the car to a mechanic. One major symptom of this is losing third and/or fourth gear on autos.
The “Key Tricks”
Older (OBDI) models – Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on, off, on, off, on. (“On” is NOT “Start” and “Off” is NOT “Lock”). The “check engine” light will flash. Count the flashes. Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be FLASH FLASH (pause) FLASH FLASH FLASH (long pause). It will never flash more than 9 times, so watch for those pauses!
Newer (OBDII) models – Put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button – and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car’s serial number. It will then show the error codes (it might show them starting with P). If this method does not work, try the OBDI method.
Older Model Computer Codes (OBDI) – IMPORTANT! Codes may be different for newer vehicles starting circa 1996.
- 11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; OR loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor.
- 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected
- 13 MAP sensor or vacuum line may not be working
- 14 MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V
- 15 No speed/distance sensor signal
- 16 Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
- 17 Engine stays cool too long (bad thermostat or coolant sensor?) OR 17 (1985 turbo only): knock sensor circuit
- 21 Oxygen sensor signal doesn’t change (stays at 4.3-4.5V). Probably bad oxygen sensor
- 22 Coolant sensor signal out of range – May have been disconnected to set timing
- 23 Incoming air temperature sensor may be bad
- 24 Throttle position sensor over 4.96V
- 25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached
- 26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached (need to check computer signals, voltage reg, injectors)
- 27 Injector circuit isn’t switching when it’s told to (TBI) OR (MPI) injector circuit #1 not switching right OR (turbo) injector circuit #2 not switching right OR (all 1990-) injector output driver not responding – check computer, connections
- 31 Bad evaporator purge solenoid circuit or driver
- 32 (1984 only) power loss/limited lamp or circuit OR 32 EGR gases not working (1988) – check vacuum, valve OR 32 (1990-92) computer didn’t see change in air/’fuel ratio when EGR activated – check valve, vacuum lines, and EGR electrical
- 33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted (may be in the wide-open-throttle cutoff circuit or normal on early 80’s models if you don’t have air conditioning)
- 34 (1984-86) EGR solenoid circuit shorted or open OR 34 (1987-1991) speed control shorted or open
- 35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted OR 35 idle switch motor fault – check connections
- 36 (turbo only) Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
- 37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed OR part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) OR solenoid coil circuit (85-87 Turbo only) OR Trans temperature sensor voltage low (1995 and on)
- 41 Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
- 42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted OR 42 Fuel pump relay control circuit OR 42 Fuel level unit – no change over miles OR 42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (The Z1 voltage is the voltage of the circuits fed by the autoshutdown relay. This typically includes fuel pump and switched-battery feed to the ignition coil)
- 43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time OR 43 Cylinder misfire OR 43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
- 44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR 44 Battery temperature out of range
- 45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
- 46 Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system voltage too low
- 47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
- 51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position (this may be tripped by a bad MAP sensor system causing a rich condition. If you get hot rough idle and stalling, especially on deceleration, accompanied by flooded engine and difficulty restarting, that can be a bad MAP sensor causing the O2 sensor to try to compensate. If you get poor cold driveability, stumbling and bucking, and acceptable warm driving with poor gas mileage (a drop of 10 mpg or more), that is usually the O2 sensor. OR 51 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only).
- 52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position OR 52 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only)
- 53 Logic module internal problem
- 54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only) OR 54 Internal logic module fault (’84 turbo only) – or camshaft sensor/distributor timing
- 55 End of codes
- 61 “Baro” sensor open or shorted
- 62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM 62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
- 63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
- 64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
- 65 Power steering switch failure
- 66 No CCD Message From TCM and/or No CCD Message From BCM
Newer model Computer codes (OBDII)
- 30 Sensor heater relay problem
- 36 Sensor heater relay problem
- 106 MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup
- 107 MAP sensor voltage too low
- 108 MAP sensor voltage too high
- 112 Intake air temperature sensor voltage low
- 113 Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high
- 116 Coolant temperature sensor reading doesn’t make sense
- 117 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low
- 118 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high
- 121 Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other
- 122 Throttle position sensor voltage low
- 123 Throttle position sensor voltage high
- 125 Taking too long to reach proper operating temperature and switch to energy-efficient mode
- 130 Sensor heater relay problem
- 130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
- 136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
- 142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- 143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- 144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- 145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- 146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
- 147 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
- 151 Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to ground?
- 152 Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to active 12V?
- 153 Oxygen sensor response too slow
- 154 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition – may need replacement
- 155 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
- 157 Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to ground?
- 158 Oxygen sensor voltage problem – short circuit to active 12V?
- 159 Oxygen sensor response too slow
- 160 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition – may need replacement
- 161 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly)
- 171 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
- 172 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
- 174 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction).
- 175 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction).
- 176 Flex fuel sensor can’t be seen
- 178 Flex fuel sensor problem
- 179 Flex fuel sensor problem
- 182 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
- 183 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem
- 201 Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 202 Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 203 Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 204 Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 205 Injector #5 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 206 Injector #6 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 207 Injector #7 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 208 Injector #8 control circuit problem (open or shorted)
- 300 Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.
- 301 Misfire detected in cylinder #1.
- 302 Misfire detected in cylinder #2.
- 303 Misfire detected in cylinder #3.
- 304 Misfire detected in cylinder #4.
- 305 Misfire detected in cylinder #5.
- 306 Misfire detected in cylinder #6.
- 307 Misfire detected in cylinder #7
- 308 Misfire detected in cylinder #8.
- 320 Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking.
- 325 Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong.
- 330 Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong.
- 340 No camshaft signal being received by the computer
- 350 A coil is drawing too much current.
- 351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 352 Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 353 Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 354 Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 355 Coil #5 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 356 Coil #6 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 357 Coil #7 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 358 Coil #8 is not reaching peak current at the right time
- 401 A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test.
- 403 An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit.
- 404 The EGR sensor’s reported position makes no sense
- 405 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
- 406 EGR position sensor voltage wrong.
- 412 The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator).
- 420 The catalyst seems inefficient (#1).
- 432 The catalyst seems inefficient (#2).
- 441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly
- 442 A leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
- 443 Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working properly
- 455 A large leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
- 456 A small leak has been detected in the evaporative system!
- 460 The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long distance. Something seems wrong.
- 461 The fuel level sender is not reporting any change over a long time. Something seems wrong.
- 462 Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
- 463 Fuel level sender voltage wrong.
- 500 Haven’t heard from the speed sensor lately.
- 505 The idle speed air control motor doesn’t seem to be working correctly.
- 522 Oil pressure sensor problems
- 523 Oil pressure sensor problems
- 551 The power steering switch may not be working. (Neons: high pressure is showing up at high speed)
- 600 Oh-oh! The coprocessors aren’t talking to each other within the computer!
- 601 Internal computer error!
- 604 Internal computer error! (RAM check)
- 605 Internal computer error! (ROM)
- 615 Starter relay circuit problem
- 622 Generator field control problem
- 645 A/C clutch relay circuit problem.
- 700 The automatic transmission computer or Aisin computer has a problem – ask it what’s going on. I don’t know.
- 703 Brake switch circuit information seems wrong.
- 711 Based on the transmission temperature and its operations, it looks like the transmission temperature sensor’s gone bad.
- 712 Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
- 713 Transmission fluid temperature sensor voltage wrong.
- 720 The Output Shaft Speed Sensor doesn’t match the reported vehicle speed.
- 740 The engine’s running faster than it should for these speeds, so I think the torque converter clutch lock-up system is bad
- 743 Torque converter clutch (part throttle unlock) solenoid circuit problem – shift solenoid C electrical fault
- 748 Governor Pressure Solenoid circuit problem (Transmission relay circuit problem in Jeep RE transmissions)
- 751 Overdrive override switch has been pressed for over five minutes. Just thought you should know.
- 753 Overdrive solenoid control circuit problem (transmission relay circuit in Jeep RE transmissions.)
- 756 Shift solenoid B (2-3) fault
- 783 The overdrive solenoid can’t go from 3rd gear to the overdrive gear.
- 801 Transmission reverse gear lockout solenoid circuit problem!
- 833 Problem with the clutch-released switch circuit?
- 1192 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
- 1193 Inlet air temperature sensor voltage is wrong
- 1194 Oxygen sensor heater performance is faulty
- 1195 Oxygen sensor is slow
- 1196 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 2).
- 1197 The oxygen sensor switched too slowly (bank 1).
- 1198 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
- 1199 Radiator coolant temperature sensor voltage is wrong.
- 1281 The engine is staying cold too long – check your thermostat.
- 1282 The fuel pump relay circuit seems to be having a problem.
- 1288 The intake manifold short runner tuning valve circuit seems to be having a problem.
- 1289 There’s a problem in the manifold tuning valve solenoid control circuit.
- 1290 Compressed natural gas system pressure is too high
- 1291 The heated air intake sensor does not seem to be working.
- 1292 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
- 1293 Natural gas pressure sensor issue
- 1294 Can’t get to target engine speed, check for vacuum leaks and idle speed motor issues.
- 1295 The throttle position sensor doesn’t seem to be getting enough electricity.
- 1296 The MAP sensor doesn’t seem to be getting enough electricity.
- 1297 The MAP sensor doesn’t change its reading when the engine is running!
- 1298 During wide-open throttle, the engine runs lean.
- 1299 MAP Sensor and Throttle Position Sensor signals don’t match, check for a vacuum leak.
- 1388 Auto shutdown relay circuit problems?
- 1389 No Z1 or Z2 voltage seen by the computer when the auto shutdown relay is used.
- 1390 Cam and crank signals don’t match – did the timing belt skip a tooth?
- 1391 Sometimes, I can’t see the crank or cam sensor signal.
- 1398 I can see the Crank Sensor’s signal when I prepare for Misfire Diagnostics. Try replacing it.
- 1399 Problem in the Wait to Start Lamp circuit – (diesels only?)
- 1403 EGR position sensor not getting (enough) voltage.
- 1476 Too little secondary air injection during aspirator test.
- 1477 Too much secondary air injection during aspirator test.
- 1478 Battery temperature sensor voltage wrong.
- 1479 Transmission fan relay circuit problems?
- 1480 PCV solenoid circuit problems?
- 1481 Transmission RPM pulse generator signal for misfire detection seems wrong.
- 1482 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted low.
- 1483 Catalyst temperature sensor circuit shorted high.
- 1484 The catalyst seems to be overheating!
- 1485 Air injection solenoid circuit problems.
- 1486 Pinched or blocked hose in the evaporative hose system.
- 1487 Control circuit of the #2 high-speed radiator fan control relay is having problems.
- 1488 Auxiliary 5-volt sensor feed is too low.
- 1489 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
- 1490 Low speed radiator fan control circuit problem.
- 1491 Radiator fan control circuit problem (may be solid state relays as well as other circuits).
- 1492 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
- 1493 Ambient or battery temperature sensor voltage wrong
- 1494 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem – electrical or the pump itself.
- 1495 Leak Detection Pump (LDP) pressure switch problem – the solenoid circuit.
- 1496 Sensor feed is below an acceptable limit. (under 4v for 4 seconds – should be 5v).
- 1498 High speed radiator fan control circuit problem. (#3 control relay)
- 1594 Voltage too high in charging system.
- 1595 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid control circuits shorted or lost.
- 1596 Speed control switch always high
- 1597 Speed control switch always low
- 1598 A/C pressure sensor voltage high
- 1599 A/C pressure sensor voltage low
- 1681 No messages received from the cluster control module (dashboard computer).
- 1682 Charging system doesn’t seem to be working well. Check alternator, etc.
- 1683 Speed control servo power control circuit problem.
- 1684 The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts.
- 1685 Invalid key received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
- 1686 No messages received from the Smart Key Immobilizer Module.
- 1687 No messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster module.
- 1693 The companion engine control module has shown a fault.
- 1694 No messages received from the powertrain control module-Aisin transmission.
- 1695 No messages received from the body control module.
- 1696 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location!
- 1697 Unsuccessful attempt to update Service Reminder Indicator (SRI or EMR) mileage!
- 1698 No messages received from the electronic transmission control module or the Aisin transmission controller.
- 1719 Transmission 2-3 gear lockout solenoid control circuit problem.
- 1740 Either the tcc solenoid or overdrive solenoid systems doesn’t seem to be making much sense.
- 1756 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Mid pressure problem)
- 1757 Transmission control pressure not equal to target. (Zero pressure problem)
- 1762 The Governor Pressure Sensor input was too high or too low for 3 consecutive park/neutral calibrations.
- 1763 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too high
- 1764 The Governor Pressure Sensor input is too low.
- 1765 Open or short in the Transmission Relay control circuit.
- 1899 The Park/Neutral switch seems to be stuck!
This is a copy and paste from Jeep Horizons.com the post was made by ThePhantum.
Conclusion
OBDII code P0110, indicating a low voltage issue in the intake air temperature sensor circuit, can impact your vehicle’s performance and fuel efficiency. By understanding the symptoms, potential causes, and diagnostic steps outlined in this guide, you can effectively troubleshoot and address this issue. Remember to consult repair manuals specific to your vehicle and, when in doubt, seek assistance from a qualified automotive technician. For more in-depth automotive diagnostics and repair information, visit autelfrance.com, your trusted resource for expert automotive knowledge.